The jeans

Since few weeks I’ve received my Louis, freshly “baked” in the Okayama workshop of the brand, in Japan – kind of a Mecca of denim. It’s a basic 5 pocket straight cut trousers made of a 14.5 oz raw selvedge denim, meaning it is really thick, heavy and rigid. By this way, know that manufacturing a pair of Renhsen jeans requires 2.50 meters of fabric, which is around two times more than any classic jeans. “Raw” means that the fabric wan’t treated, so yarns forming the fabric are still soaked with their natural indigo color, meaning that as you wear the jeans, or if you wash them, this color will fade leaving then white marks.

The product is extremely well finished, sewing points are perfectly made and the jeans leaves an impression of sturdyness. Details are appreciable: the label inside, the rivets, this horizontal trimming on the back pockets in a slightly different blue and the selvedge finish (which still makes quite an impression). The Louis also has a firmly sewn YKK zip, rivets strenghtening the font pockets and a leather tab with the brand logo. Easy to see that we are talking about real quality jeans.

Test

When unpacking the plastic wraping the jeans, a first thought comes: the postman got me a wrong package, it is well too rigid! Well, there’s actually no mistake, my jeans are here, as rigid as a cardboard. The fabric will untighten wearing them, leaving some scars on the hips and at the knee pits. That’s fortunate, this is the only way we like them! First try, the Louis has a straight cut, like a good old 501. I confess I was expecting a slimmer cut, but in some way, things are better like that, it’ll make a bit of a change for once.

Like told before, they are really rigid and leave their marks on my body, a bit like a new pair of shoes you wear for the first time. But the fabric gets softer after few times wearing the jeans, and they quickly become really comfortable after around 5 days wearing them. I have picked my usual size (32/34 for 187cm, 6.15 ft) and the jeans fit perfectly now, after 3 months.

I’m rolling up hems (3 times to really say) which gets the fit slimmer. For the moment, small fades start to appear from the knees, and I haven’t washed them yet (I’m planning at least 6 month wearing them 3/4 times in a week before any wash). Like one says: “each wash gets you new jeans”. That’s really good jeans, I happy with them even if I’m thinking about altering the legs by a retoucher (fyi : until then I was wearing a pair of Naked & Famous SkinnyGuy). Tested and approved then!

Where to find some?

Renhsen’s distribution remains restricted to few retailers. Today, the Louis RSB I have tested is out of stock on L’Exception store http://renhsen.lexception.com, but when you look for such quality jeans, better is to try them before. Renhsen showroom: 22 rue Beaurepaire, 75010, Paris.

Ps : the Louis exist in grey, black and blue, all three in selvedge. Sizes: from 27 to 36, legs=34.

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Brand: Herringbone
Price: from €229 to €399, depending on the model

Description:
With their vintage style, Herringbones camera bags are made of a very soft full grain leather. They all feature many pockets and customizeable details. The inside is padded and it has removeable compartments.

Brand: Billingham
Price: From £137 (€170) to £466 (€578) for the biggest size

Description:
Billingham creates waxed cotton bag since 1973 from their factory located in central England, around Birmingham. Originally, the brand only proposed fishing bags, hence such a construction. When in 1978, Martin Billingham who was himself an amateur phototographer discovered some Newyorkese guys carrying their camera in fishing bags, then he decided to convert its brand activity into camera bags manufacturing.

Brand: Garbstore
Price: €200

Description:
Since summer 2012 the English from garbstore propose a camera bag range with two available sizes. it’s all manufactured in the UK. Bags are made of thick cotton and feature nice leather details. The inside has removeable padded compartments you can change according to your lense(s) size. On the contrary to most bags, Garbstore played a colorful card, which is likeable.

Brand: Hard Graft
price: €440

Description:
Those who already know Hard graft may have difficulties keeping themselves from visiting their website on a regular basis, keeping on their head the idea to finally own one of their bag someday. For the others, know that it is an English high-end accessory brand with a distinctive minimalis design. Felt, nice leather and an awesome render for this accessory specialist who just released its first camera bag. It is made of vegetally tanned leather and features a removeable compartment. It is nice, expensive and we regret that it wasn’t released in a bigger size (dimentions: 19cm x 13cm x18cm).

Brand: Domke
Price: from €124,90 to €289,90

Description:
In general popular from advanced photographers, Domke bags were created to answer specific needs: carrying photo equipment. Jim Domke created the first bag, in search for praticity, sturdyness and reactivity. All made in the US, the range offers bags in many sizes.

Brand: Kalahari
Price: from 29€

Description:
During a safari in Botswana, John and Elaine Dugmore felt the growing need of a tent repairs service. So they launched using one only sewing machine, which was really not enough to repair the huge pile of tents standing in front of them. So they decided to work upstream, creating better end products. Kalahari’s camera bag range is not the most beautiful of all, but above all one of the less expensive made of sturdy cotton and offering many sizes.

Brand: Ona bags
Price: from €200 to €320

Description:
Since 2010, Tracy Foster decided to launch his own bag brand for photographers who also care about their style. Premium materials: full grain cowhide leather, waxed canvas and reused copper, are used to make Ona Bags. With a very classic schoolbag, messenger bag style, they allow carrying up to 3 lenses (7 for the backpacks).

Brand: Moore & Giles
Price: €483

Description:
Experts in leather since 1933, Moore & Giles started producing shoes upper, soldes and leather linings, all coming from local tanneries (then international). Only in 2007, the brand starts to focus on accessories. They propose two leather bag models, the Lew above is one of them. It really is beautiful and was created in partnership with a famous photographer: Rick Lew. The bag mixes waxed cotton and leather, the inside has customizeable compartments and a lot of space to carry up to 6 lenses. It is on of our favourites.

Brand: Property of…
Price : €219

Description:
The Singapore brand Property Of… launched their first camera bag this year with the Thomas style. made of waxed cotton, it is ideal to carry a reflex and two lenses with its 3 compartments. It also features an outside pocket, a resists to water. Cool thing, 5 colors are available: beige, black, grey, olive and orange.

Brand: Tanner Goods
Price : €270

Description:
Since 2012 the American handmade leather expert Tanner Goods added a bag dédicated to photographers in their range. The outfits is made of a sturdy cotton with few leather details. The inside is in felt, ideal to cushion all shocks involved when carrying such a fragile item. The bag isn’t that large, it can have 2/3 lenses maximum.

CONCLUSION

A thing you’ve now understood, budget for a camera bag vary. Like usual one would say: the more you need a large bag, the higher budget you should have. But actually the “larger and more expensive” does not really work here as it will depend on the material quality your chosen bag will be made of (just like when you buy a regular bag :x). It you have nice camera bag ideas, please feel free to share ;).

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Willing to save the energy of my one-day beloved, I’m taking a break to gaze at the beautiful panorama in front of me. The Montjuic hill overlooks the port and the old city, the weather is clement and the outfit suits the circumstance. A light shirt, jeans matching my car and espadrilles enhancing the magical feel and the of this place. I just want this moment to last, I have my bag made of automotive recycled fabric with the necessary to hit the road few more days in my beloved English. Lost in my thoughts, I just hope my MG’s upholstery won’t be converted into a wallet.

Unfortunately, all good things come to an end, the time gets me back to reality, hour has come to go back home. The real owner is waiting for her, worried seeing his car leaving with a stranger, even with a “driver” like me. The trip back goes downhill, the sunroof leaves a soft wind going through my hair. I’m almost home, enjoying the few last minutes of this short English break on the Catalan lands.

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Many adaptations of The Great Gatsby were made over the years. We will decrypt two of them: the 1974 directed by Jack Clayton featuring Robert Redford and Mia Farrow and of course, the one released this week by Baz Luhrmann starring Leonardo DiCaprio, Tobey Maguire and Careil Mulligan.

Ralph Lauren took care of 1974 Gatsby’s suits. His work on such a movie allowed Mr Ralph Lauren promoted him among the highest realms of international tailoring. In 2013, a brand we all know being the most emblematic of Americans’ formal wardrobe, Brooks Brothers dressed Leonardo DiCaprio. This is a real match between two high-end tailors to compare these two version of the Great Gatsby.

The 1974 versus 2013 match, Robert versus Leo, Ralph Lauren versu Brooks Brothers, Gatsby versus Gatsby can now start.

The countryside weekend

Leaving for a weekend in a cabriolet, no way wearing the same blue or grey suit as during the week. Here, Robert Redford opted for a brown suit as Leonardo DiCaprio chose a 3 pieces beige suit. Note that Leo would rther prefer 3 pieces suits all along his Gatsby incarnation. Robert’s boots are perfect for a weekend in the English countryside. Leonardo’s boater hat adds a holiday/relaxation touch to his outfit as the cane adds some dandy – like he needed that. Robert’s outfit suits more for a autumn/winter weekend as Leonardo’s is more adapted to spring/summer.

The Rendez-vous

A specialist may have advised Gatsby to dress on his first meeting, the guy just don’t kid with that! The 3 pieces linen suit is emblematic from the 1920s, both Gatsby follow the rule. To add a touch of color to some dull outfit, bet on a pocket square, cufflinks or the tie. By this way, we love Leonardo’s club tie.

In both cases, the actors wear what’s called a pin collar. It is a small bar allowing to raise the tie knot, its edges can be seen on the pictures. Generally, it is possible to ask for this specific collar for tailored shirts, with small rounded eyelets embroidered like buttonholes.

The reception

The ideal occasion to get your smoking out of the closet. A tuxedo is certainly the hardest kind of suit to wear properly. Constrained by codes, this outfit don’t offer many options. Both Gatsby follow the rule: a silk/satiny small notched lapel and a black bow tie. A smoking has to be worn with a white bib shirt. Collar can be both “wing” like Robert Redford’s one and “turndown” like Leonardo DiCaprio. I rather prefer wing collars, matching greatly bib shirts. Three pieces smoking are quite rare, but that’s no really part of the tuxedo’s philosophy: a faux pas? Almost.

Conclusion

End of the match, let’s count points, and the victory goes to Leonardo DiCaprio, even with a flagrant faux pas for the smoking. Enjoy your movie guys ;)

The whole Gatsby closet (2013 version) is available at http://www.brooksbrothers.com

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The High recharge range

The anti-fatigue range from Biotherm is called “High Recharge” and features 4 different products among which this one. The whole range comes in a highly-recognizable red packaging, symbol of energy (but also passion, yes!).

Instructions

The tube is made of a supple plastic, the gel is white and fluid enough to be applied on the whole face with a knob of product only. Reminder: always clean your face before using a self-tanner, avoid the eyes, eyebrows and the roots of your hair.

Test

As the product only has a small amount of self-tanner, the smell remains discreet which is a good point for those who usually dislike this kind of smell (- ugh!). Most of all, the product meets its expectations: benefits of a moisturizer and a natural healthy complexion! The kind of product leaving you fully satisfied as you don’t dwell upon the ingredients! Properly priced and efficient, that’s all you need here ;)

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La plaça Reial, as the Catalan call it, is one of the most touristic places of the city. it was build in 1848, in dedication to king Ferdinand VII and in a wider sense to the Spanish monarchy. Located two steps from the famous Ramblas, it was yesterday frequented by the higher class looking for sun and gastronomy – times are changing. This is the only square in Barcelona with archways under wich I undertook few acrobatics.

The outfit is ideal for Spring: a denim jacket, a t-shirt with a eye-catching-trucker graphic, black jeans and pair of tropical-patterned sneakers. A way I like to dress, no hassle. However be careful to wear those sneakers with fitted jeans, the contrary would look like “crushed” (well, the Vans Era is a bit flattened). Do not worry, we did not forget to shoot around Gaudí’ street lights (to be continued on Facebook)

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Dnm Pieces trousers are made in France, in a small workshop in the Nord where the fabric also comes from (non-selvedge for the moment, but it is to come), the other materials are from Europe (Italy, UK). The whole manufacturing process is made by hand, with a great attention to details: trims, copper buttons, nice mix of colors and quality finishing touches.

The brand launches different model: two jeans and three chinos, all named after a 7 multiple, known as the magical number. Both jeans: the n°7 and the n°14 are made of a 11oz raw denim and tightly fitted (let’s say like a Levi’s 510). The fist has a classic shape, minimalist like all basic 5 pockets trousers featuring a “coin pocket” (which isn’t used on the n°14). Nevertheless the second has a very elegant red trimming on the front pockets. Both have the brand’ specific details: a brushed stell rivet on the top corner of the right back pocket and the classic leather patch which is bull-calf made here.

The three chinos are numbered 21, 28 and 35. Available colors are quite simple: burgundy, sky blue and beige. Fabric used is 100% cotton twill and again few details are making those Dnm Pieces chinos stand out: wood buttons, denim pockets and a colored selvedge detail from each ankle. They’re close-fitted as well.

Manufacturing such products in Europe implies high retail prices: €175 for the n°7, €185 for the n°14 and €165 for the chinos. For the moment, Dnm Piece mention their wish to keep a restricted distribution. For the moment, only Culture Denim in Lille, France has them. But you can also buy their products straightly at source, on their official webstore, waiting for your nearest retailer to bet on Dnm Pieces.

More info at : http://www.dnm-pieces.com

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Here is my sportswear outfit. This is a jacket I’ve found at the new boutique N°42, Paris, and it perfectly suits the “active” athmosphere of this series. Its colors are bright, and its animal pattern really turns a simple windrunner into a very “strong” and interesting piece. I had kind of a crush on these silver vintage runing sneakers. Not convinced by the running trend? I can assure how essential it was to wear stylish and comfortable shoes to stride across Barcelona back and forth as we did. This pair was the perfect companion for such a journey.

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The 576 was created in 1988, in a time when technically, everything remained to invent in the field of running equipment. In a time when this practice also went out of the professional sphere to enter people’s everyday life, and in an era of deep change in sport sponsorship : this was the period of Senna, the beginning of Michael Jordan, the Olympic Games of Seoul…

This shoe is dedicated to a sport use, more precisely to all-round running thanks to its grip sole and equipped with New Balance C-CAP and ENCAP technologies intended to cushioning and comfort. 27 components are usually necessary to make one pair altough most training shoes are made with an average of 12.

The legend says its design would be inspired of the 675, that after he received a sample of the sole in the Boston headquarters of the brand, the designer changed the colors and material, he modified the shape and the 576 was created. Until then, New Balance had never ever proposed any shoe totally made of leather (they always offered a mix of mesh and leather) and the 576 was the first to be released in full-smooth leather or full suede version.

Initially created for the US market, the model is only a success in New York and struggle to be accepted in the rest of the country. As the shoe is commercially on the blink, a German sales manager of the brand notices the model during a visit at the American headquarters. He decides to import the surplus stock in his country, and he launches the production of the 576 in Germany. Besides, at this moment the number 576 was given to the model, Americans had chosen an other option before. The model is a success from the first year, but then seems to be run out of steam, until it disappears from the production line of New Balance.

In 1997, the 576 makes a comeback. At the same time, Bill Clinton is shooted leaving hospital after a knee surgery wearing a pair of New Balance. Many people like to say that he who kind made the model revive. This time, it was no longer produced in the United States but in the European factory of the brand, in Flimby, England (which we visited last year : http://www.frenchtruckers.com/manufacturing-new-balance/). The 576 find its feet, wears the most beautiful smooth leathers and suede, and has the biggest brands ask her for collaborations.

A decade later, in 2007, the 576 comes back once again under the spotlight. In a completely different world, where the market, the consumer’s demand for unique products encourage brands to collaborate together, where fashion is trusted by retro running shoes, where a distribution in selected stockist is essential, where producing locally is a marketing argument… in short : the 576 is a success !

Since 2007, many things happened to the 576 which has become a wardrobe essential for all sneakers lovers. Many collaborations with the most prestigious worldwide streetwear shops were made : Atmos (Japan), Mita (Japan), Hanon (UK)… and even haute couture designers such as Junya Watanabe. Then, when a pair for a royal wedding has to be made, or another to celebrate the 30th birdthday of the brand in England, New Balance still choses the 576. As always, here is a selection of some collaborations around the world :

In 2003, the 576 celebrates its 25th birthday, to mark the occasion New Balance released the “25th anniversary pack” : two pairs in limited edition with exclusive colors. Made of mesh and buckskin, in blue or grey, we advise you to hurry up because few pairs are still available today. You can buy them at Size?, if you are looking for any other edition, check the brand page.

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The tube has a very compact and cylindrical shape and works with a push button. Push and it foams: a soft and light foam just like when you take a bath. That’s really pleasing at the first times but I was a bit disappointed about such a lightness (I would have liked a thicker texture). In any case, it’s ideal for sensitive skins! Use it every morning and evening to get rid of the impurities your skin got all day long!

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