Today I am honored to present you another French denim brand, with slightly slanted eyes. It is Renhsen, a French jeaner creater in 2005 by Mickaël Mouangué and his wife Judith. Simple initial observation, at that time it was practically impossible to find quality jeans coming from a French brand. Inspired by the 1960-70s, by their travels (USA, Japan), Mickaël who grew up surrounded by fashion, and passed his passion to his wife later, decided to launch their own denim brand. I’ve put the Louis cut on the test bench:
Since few weeks I’ve received my Louis, freshly “baked” in the Okayama workshop of the brand, in Japan – kind of a Mecca of denim. It’s a basic 5 pocket straight cut trousers made of a 14.5 oz raw selvedge denim, meaning it is really thick, heavy and rigid. By this way, know that manufacturing a pair of Renhsen jeans requires 2.50 meters of fabric, which is around two times more than any classic jeans. “Raw” means that the fabric wan’t treated, so yarns forming the fabric are still soaked with their natural indigo color, meaning that as you wear the jeans, or if you wash them, this color will fade leaving then white marks.
The product is extremely well finished, sewing points are perfectly made and the jeans leaves an impression of sturdyness. Details are appreciable: the label inside, the rivets, this horizontal trimming on the back pockets in a slightly different blue and the selvedge finish (which still makes quite an impression). The Louis also has a firmly sewn YKK zip, rivets strenghtening the font pockets and a leather tab with the brand logo. Easy to see that we are talking about real quality jeans.
When unpacking the plastic wraping the jeans, a first thought comes: the postman got me a wrong package, it is well too rigid! Well, there’s actually no mistake, my jeans are here, as rigid as a cardboard. The fabric will untighten wearing them, leaving some scars on the hips and at the knee pits. That’s fortunate, this is the only way we like them! First try, the Louis has a straight cut, like a good old 501. I confess I was expecting a slimmer cut, but in some way, things are better like that, it’ll make a bit of a change for once.
Like told before, they are really rigid and leave their marks on my body, a bit like a new pair of shoes you wear for the first time. But the fabric gets softer after few times wearing the jeans, and they quickly become really comfortable after around 5 days wearing them. I have picked my usual size (32/34 for 187cm, 6.15 ft) and the jeans fit perfectly now, after 3 months.
I’m rolling up hems (3 times to really say) which gets the fit slimmer. For the moment, small fades start to appear from the knees, and I haven’t washed them yet (I’m planning at least 6 month wearing them 3/4 times in a week before any wash). Like one says: “each wash gets you new jeans”. That’s really good jeans, I happy with them even if I’m thinking about altering the legs by a retoucher (fyi : until then I was wearing a pair of Naked & Famous SkinnyGuy). Tested and approved then!
Where to find some?
Renhsen’s distribution remains restricted to few retailers. Today, the Louis RSB I have tested is out of stock on L’Exception store http://renhsen.lexception.com, but when you look for such quality jeans, better is to try them before. Renhsen showroom: 22 rue Beaurepaire, 75010, Paris.
Ps : the Louis exist in grey, black and blue, all three in selvedge. Sizes: from 27 to 36, legs=34.